Mile Marker 23: The Graceland Cemetery of Chicago

Join us as we take a meandering tour through the Graceland Cemetery in Chicago Illinois to visit several graves such as Allan Pinkerton, George Pullman, the mysterious Eternal Silence statue & explore the history of this beautiful cemetery.....before getting kicked out.

Click HERE for the article/magazine discussing the Inez Clarke mystery.

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Transcript

Graceland Cemetery

Mile Marker 23

Key: Drifter, Male voice. Gypsie, Female voice

Uplifting rock/western tune plays for 15 seconds, music begins to taper down then:

(Drifter) Welcome to the Rebel At Large Adventure Podcast. I’m Drifter

(Gypsie) And I’m  Gypsie

(Drifter) Talking about Ghost towns,

(Gypsie) Graveyards,

(Drifter) Outlaws, Heroes

(Gypsie) And Ladies of the night.

Music tapers to an end

(Drifter)Welcome to the Rebel At Large Adventure Podcast, I’m Drifter, (Gypsie)and I’m Gypsie, (Drifter)Talking about Ghost towns, (Gypsie)Graveyards, (Drifter)Outlaw’s, Heroes (Gypsie)& Ladies of the night.

(Drifter)Howdy folks,
thanks again for joining us for another adventure, we are going to share with
you just a small part of a large trip we took heading East. (Gypsie)Today we are going to tell you about the
Graceland Cemetery in Chicago Illinois.

(Drifter)Prior to
Graceland being established, folks in the area were being laid to rest along
the shore of Lake Michigan in The Chicago City Cemetery which is now known as
Lincoln Park. (Gypsie)Chicago had not even been established as a city when people were being buried there, but records show that roughly 35,000 people once called this location their final resting place. In 1842 the land was set aside by the city to be used as a cemetery, but they quickly ran into problems. (Drifter)The ground was loose sandy soil and because it was so close to the lake, they had to deal with groundwater, which meant that some of the bodies would not stay buried.

(Gypsie)Also, it
was not easy to acquire a burial plot, if one wanted their family member laid
to rest in the cemetery, they would have to buy the lot, and it was considered
a real estate transaction, they would essentially own the deed to the land.
Some people could not afford it nor did not have the time it took to purchase
the land so several people would sneak in at night and bury the body in the
middle of the night. When the official grave diggers would go in to dig a hole
for the proper landowner, oftentimes they would find a body already there.

(Drifter)Several
factors went into play that ultimately led to the decline of the City Cemetery.
In 1863 Jacob Milliman’s attorney approached the city government stating that
the city had illegally acquired Block 49 in 1850. The legal action went all the
way to the Supreme Court, which ruled the City never properly purchased the
title to the 12-acre parcel. As a result, the city was ordered to vacate the
grounds and return the land to the Milliman family.  By the time the
lawsuit was over the city had already sold the 656 lots, this was the start of
bodies being removed from the cemetery. 

(Gypsie)In 1866 Dr.
John H. Rauch published a pamphlet called Intramural Interments in Populous
Cities, in which he talked about the need to stop burials that were close to
bodies of water. People started to become concerned with the sanitation of the
water, and that led to an ordinance banning the burial of bodies close to water.

(Drifter)When folks were fleeing the
area, they went to the cemetery for safety and in doing so trampled the
headstones. As the fire went through the cemetery it consumed the wooden
markers and crumbled the marble ones to the ground, making it difficult for
them to locate anyone left behind in the cemetery and move them to another
cemetery. It is estimated that 12,000 people are still buried in the area.

(Gypsie)Today If
you go and visit Lincoln park you can stop and visit 6 historical markers,
called Hidden Truths, that have been placed at significant sites around the
area. One marker talks about the Catholic section, another about the potter’s
field section and the most unique one talks about a tomb for the real estate
tycoon Ira Couch. The tomb or mausoleum which survived the fire is still in the
park because it would cost the city too much money to move it.

(Drifter)As Lincoln
park was transforming more into a park rather than a cemetery the need for
rural cemeteries increased. Rural cemeteries allowed families the first
opportunity to remove their loved ones from the City Cemetery, And this brings
us to the Graceland Cemetery. 

(Gypsie)Some of the
men that worked on designing Lincoln Park also contributed to the designs of
Graceland. Swain Nelson who was the original designer of the layout in
Graceland was later hired in 1865 by the city to landscape Lincoln Park. O.C.
Simonds, who designed the extension at Lincoln Park later became the
superintendent of Graceland Cemetery.

(Drifter)Graceland
cemetery was founded in 1860 upon 80 acres and is the oldest cemetery still in
use in the area. It was built outside of the city because the Chicago Fire
Department had health and safety concerns about shallow graves and cholera
affecting the water supply. To the east of the cemetery is the El train that
was used to bring mourners to the gravesites with ease.

(Gypsie)The Chicago
Press Tribune published an article on August 31, 1860 about the cemetery
stating, quote (Drifter) “The natural topography of the grounds is admitted by all to be
peculiarly beautiful- the gentle undulations and the grove of old trees over
the entire subdivision, having suggested the appropriate name.” (Gypsie)It continues on saying (Drifter)“By a regulation of the Company, the only enclosure allowed to lots will be some variety of the hedge, and nothing in wood or iron will be allowed. This will secure a peculiarly charming effect to the improvements of the grounds.” (Gypsie)They
end the article with (Drifter)“the nearest cemetery without the city limits, the easiest of access, and by the liberal terms of its managers in price of lots, as well as by the other necessary incidental expenses of interment, Graceland is placed within the reach of every class of our residents. It can be reached, and that on the best road leading out of Chicago, by funeral corteges directly from the city, at an expense but moderately in advance of that required in interments in the old Cemetery.”

(Gypsie)The first
recorded burial in the cemetery was on April 13, 1860, and it was a reinterment
from the Chicago City Cemetery. Thomas B. Bryan, Graceland’s founder, had his
son Daniel Page Bryan moved to the cemetery as soon as he could. Daniel, who
passed away on April 12, 1855 did not stay in the original location he was
placed in the Graceland Cemetery, he was moved for a third and final time
thirty years later.

(Drifter)By April 1866 of the 4,218 burials in Graceland 565 were from
disinterments from the City Cemetery. On May 16, of that year they had 48
bodies arrive in just one day, (Gypsie)that’s a lot of holes to dig in a day. (Drifter)Graceland
received a total of 2,126 individuals for reinterment from the City Cemetery
with a majority of them arriving after the Milliman Tract lawsuit and then
another large arrival in 1872 when the city incorporated the City Cemetery into
Lincoln Park.

(Gypsie)Graceland
is home to many famous Chicagoans, from politicians, The first detectives in
the United States, veterans of foreign war, many sports figures, victims of the
many fires Chicago suffered, sculptors, and architects. We are excited to share
with you some of the many people in the cemetery, the lives they lived and the
difference they made in the area.

(Drifter)One of the
very first large and noticeable headstones and possibly the most visited, you
will see as you drive through the cemetery is actually a statue not a headstone
that was designed by Lorado Taft called “The Eternal Silence.”  The statue
is that of a bronze hooded figure with its face partially hidden by one arm,
that stands over the plot of Dexter Graves and his family. Behind the statue is
a large slab of black granite and the statue matched the color when first built
but over time has oxidized to a ghostly green, except for most of the dark face
that has been protected by the hood. 

(Gypsie)Dexter and
his family were one of Chicago’s earliest settlers, arriving from Ohio in 1831.
Dexter set up a hotel in the loop called The Mansion House and this is when he
and the family build their fortune making them the wealthiest family in town.
When Dexter passed away in 1844, he was laid to rest in the City Cemetery. At
some point he was moved into the Graceland cemetery, but I couldn’t find
records of when. His Son Henry Graves passed away on October 3, 1907. His will
contained instructions for the new plot he wanted at Graceland. He left 250,000
dollars (Drifter)(just over 7.1 million dollars today) (Gypsie)for
a mausoleum to be built for the family, somewhere along the lines the mausoleum
turned into a statue. He also left 50,000 dollars (Drifter)(1.4 million) (Gypsie)for a statue to be built of his prized racehorse,
Ike Cook, and wanted it placed in Washington Park.

(Drifter)Not only did
he not get the mausoleum he requested but the statue that already had plans in
place and a drawing of what it was going to look like for his racehorse Ike was
never constructed. Instead the city had Lorado Taft build the “Fountain of
Time.” The statue that stands over the fountain is roughly in the location of
where the Ike statue was to be placed and looks very similar to “The Eternal
silence” statue.

(Gypsie)There are
many legends about “The Eternal silence” statue and because of those stories,
we had to make sure we stopped to see the statue. Some stories say that it is
impossible to get a clear photo of the statue. That is not true because we have
several clear photos of the statue, which of course we will share on the
website. Other stories say that if you look the statue in the face, you will
see your death. Another variation says that if you look the statue in the face
you will die in two days, either way I was not going to look the statue in the
face.

(Drifter)Another
spooky yet beautiful headstone in the cemetery is that of Inez Clarke. The
statue is of a young girl sitting on a log chair with her legs crossed at the
ankle. In her hand she is balancing an umbrella on the ground. The entire
statue is encapsulated inside a glass box that sits on a pedestal with a plaque
under it that reads Inez, Daughter of J.N. & M.C. Clarke. Born Sept 20,
1873 died Aug 1, 1880.” There is another plaque stating the graves of John N
Clarke and Mary C Clarke lie just to the north.

(Gypsie)The true
identity of the girl buried there has been in question for decades because
there is no record of a child by the name of Inez Clarke in the cemetery.
People have since discovered that her real name is Inez Briggs, the daughter of
Mary C Clarke from a previous marriage. Stories of her death have remained a
mystery as well, one story goes that she was struck by lightning during a
picnic, and this brings to the story that during a lightning storm, her statue
disappears from its glass case. One employee reportedly ran from the cemetery
terrified when he found the glass case empty.

(Drifter)A few other
stories about the headstone are that Inez died from tuberculosis and that the
statue has been seen crying. People have also reported that their children have
seen her spirit wandering the cemetery. Some people even believe that the
statue was created as a showpiece by the grave sculptor Andrew Gage and that he
placed it in the cemetery as an elaborate advertisement. Then overtime people
began to be buried around it, so it was just left there.(Gypsie) That’s an expensive advertisement if you ask me.

(Gypsie)If you want
to know more about Inez Clarke, John J. Binder and William G. Willard wrote an
amazing article called The Mysterious Statue of Inez Clarke that was published
in the Fall of 2011 in the Chicago Genealogist. They spent a lot of time
following Inez’s family line to get to the bottom of who this little girl
really was and who her family is. We will see if we can link the magazine in
the show notes.

(Drifter)We
unfortunately didn’t get to see the headstone because we had no idea that the
cemetery closes at 5. After we spent some time looking at The Eternal Silence
marker and tracking down the Pinkertons we stopped to rest and have a snack and
were kicked out by the security. But this headstone is well worth talking about
and we sure do wish we could have seen it for ourselves in person.

(Gypsie)The next
person in the Graceland Cemetery we want to share with you is John Kinzie who
is sometimes referred to as “Chicago’s first citizen.” He came to the area
before Chicago was even a city back in 1804. But historians have been able to
disprove this because Jean Baptiste Point du Sable built a cabin just North of
the Chicago River near Lake Michigan in 1779 and used it as a trading post
before Kinzie purchased it from him. He may not hold the title for being the
first resident, but he does hold the title for being the first murderer in the
area.

(Drifter)According to
Ann Durkin Keating’s book called “Rising up from Indian Country: The battle of
Fort Dearborn and the Birth of Chicago, the murder took place on June 17, 1812.
John Kinzie was neighbors with Jean La Lime, who was a French trader as well as
an interpreter among the settlers and Native Americans. (Gypsie)John was known throughout town to be somewhat of a
bully, and even aggressive towards American soldiers stationed at Fort
Dearborn. The two men met outside Fort Dearborn, La Lime was armed with a
pistol and Kinzie was armed with a butcher’s knife. A witness account of what
happened after goes as follows (Drifter)“We saw the men come out together; we heard the pistol go off, and saw smoke. Then they fell down together. I don’t know as La Lime got up at all but Kinzie got home pretty quick. Blood was running from his shoulder where La Lime shot him.”

(Gypsie)He returned to the area and
lived there until he passed away on June 6, 1828. It is rumored that La Lime
was buried near Kinzie’s cabin, and in 1891 a partial skeleton was excavated in
the area and given to the Chicago Historical Society, which they still have.
Kinzie is buried at the Graceland Cemetery and he is located across the road
from “The Eternal silence” statue. He has two headstones, one looks to be the
original one placed for him and is very faded and difficult to read, the other
one is a more modern style headstone and is right in front of the old one.

(Drifter)Throughout
our short time of wandering through the cemetery we found the final resting
place for Allan Pinkerton and several of his agents. Allan Pinkerton came to
Chicago in 1842 and started a business making barrels. While looking for lumber
on an island in the Fox River he stumbled upon a band of counterfeiters. Allan
watched the men and gathered as much information as he could, he then went to
the police and turned over all the information. Due to his investigation the
police were able to apprehend and arrest the men.  Allan soon got a job
working as the town sheriff, he then became Chicago’s first police detective as
well as an agent for the U.S. Post office. Around 1850 he opened the private
investigation firm that became known as the Pinkerton National Detective Agency. (Gypsie)We aren’t going to get too much into the Pinkerton
Detective Agency right now because we have a future episode coming up about the
Pinkertons.

(Gypsie)Allan is
buried next to his wife, several of his children as well as several of his
agents. His headstone is I’m betting 15 feet tall with a plaque on it that
reads (Drifter)“in memory of Allan Pinkerton born in Glasgow Scotland August 25th 1819 died in Chicago Illinois July 1st 1884 aged 65 years. A friend to honesty and foe to crime devoting
himself for a generation to the prevention and detection of crime in many
countries. He was the founder in America of a noble profession. In the hour of
the nation’s peril, he conducted Abraham Lincoln safely through the ranks of
treason to the scene of his first inauguration as president, he sympathized
with, protected and defended the slaves, and labored earnestly for their
freedom. Hating wrong, and loving good, he was strong, brave, tender, and true.”

(Gypsie)Next to
Allan and his family lie the Pinkertons first female detective in the United
States, Kate Warne. She was a spy during the Civil War, as well as posed as a
rich Southern belle to help Pinkerton uncover a poisoning plot against Abraham
Lincoln. Another Agent lying next to him is Timothy Webster, who was hung as a
spy by Confederates.

(Drifter)Gypsie took a
picture of the headstone for the Hoyt family thinking that it was maybe the
Hoyt archery company, (Gypsie)not
to mention the headstone is remarkably beautiful. (Drifter)It has three female figures sitting on pedestals, one is holding a cross, one is holding an anchor, and the third is nursing a baby. (Gypsie)When
we got home, we started looking into the family more to get some back history
on them and found out that William owned a grocery store in downtown Chicago
that was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1871. He was able to recover from the
fire and rebuilt only to be devastated by another fire.

(Drifter)On Wednesday
December 30, 1903 roughly 2,000 Chicagoans crowded into the Iroquois Theater to
enjoy the very first matinee performance in the theater, Mr. Bluebeard. Many of
the attendees were women and children because the kids were out of school for
the holidays. The Iroquois at this time was one of the most eloquent and
beautifully designed theaters built in Chicago. The architect Benjamin Marshall
praised how fireproof the building was and that if the building did catch on
fire, if all 30 exits were used the building could be emptied out in a matter
of 5 minutes.

(Drifter)The theater
was packed that day, at its max capacity it could seat about 1,600 people but
like we just mentioned almost 2,000 people were in the building. Because they
were overcrowded, they bolted some of the exits shut to keep people from
sneaking in, they also put-up accordion gates in the hallways to keep people
from sneaking into the lower sections. (Gypsie)As act two started, 8 couples were on stage
singing with the lights turned off and only a single blue light in the
background, to give off the illusion of the moon. The light sparked a flame and
the curtains around it began to catch on fire.

(Gypsie)At first
the audience thought that it was part of the show but as the balls of flames
began to fall, they started to panic. The star of the show, Eddie Foy came out
on stage to tell the audience that everything is fine and to not worry, he even
encouraged the orchestra to continue to play in an attempt to calm everyone
down. The house foreman then began to shout to lower the asbestos curtain and
to pull the box, but there was no alarm box. At this point the audience began
to run for the exits, but the building was dark and there were no exit lights
telling anyone where the doors were. If they were able to find the doors,
people found out that some of the doors were bolted shut, other doors lead to
nowhere, while other attendees were trapped behind the accordion gates.  

(Drifter)As the
asbestos curtain was being lowered it got stuck on a piece of lighting
equipment right at the same time the cast members opened the double doors in
the back. It was a horrible scene when the cold air outside mixed with the hot
air in the theater creating a ball of flames that consumed the loft, the fire
then shot out from under the curtain and up into the balcony area killing
several people instantly.

(Gypsie)After the
fire was put out, they began an investigation into what happened and why over
600 people were killed. They found that several corners had been cut during
construction and city inspectors had been paid off with free tickets to shows
because they were in a rush to get the theater opened by December 23.  For
example, the asbestos curtain that was designed to stop the fire wasn’t even
made of asbestos at all. Several of the fire escapes hadn’t even been
completed, one of them being the escape off the roof. Construction workers in
the building next door saw what was going on and tried to help people escape.
They hastily built a bridge for people to walk across but after several people
fell to their deaths, they stopped using it, and people were now trapped on the
roof. They also found that the doors inside of the theater were built to open into
the sitting area rather than to open out into the lobby, so when people were
trying to get out, the crowd was pushing the door closed rather than open. The
building had no sprinklers, no alarm, no telephone or even water connections,
yet the city still let it open up for performances.

(Drifter)Several
lawsuits were brought forth to the city Mayor, the architect and the Iroquois
theater owners but no one was ever jailed or even fined for the deaths. Because
of this fire people began to look at fireproofing a building differently, they
started building doors that open out, they put in exit lights over the doors,
built sprinkler systems, and even placed fire extinguishers throughout the
building. William Hoyt lost his daughter Emilie Fox and three of his
grandchildren, George Sidney age 15, William Hoyt age 12, and Emilie L age 9 in
that fire. Two months after the fire, Emilie Fox’s husband passed away because
he was never able to recover from the loss of his entire family. The five of
them are resting next to William and his wife Emilie as well as several other
family members.

(Gypsie)Ludwig
Wolff also lost his daughter and grandchildren in the Iroquois fire. His
underground tomb in Graceland has an air vent installed inside for the
afterlife. Rumor is the mausoleum is haunted.

(Drifter)The next
headstone that we got to see as we were being kicked out of the cemetery is the
marker for George Mortimer Pullman. (Gypsie)His
headstone has to be the tallest obelisk I have ever seen firsthand.  

(Drifter)George was
born on March 3, 1831 in Brockton New York. He was the third of 10 children
born to James and Emily Pullman. He went to school until he was 14 years old,
after that he got his first job working as a clerk in a small grocery store. He
did that for about three years and then left to work for his brother making
cabinets in Albion New York. During the 1850’s the state began accepting bids
for contractors to move houses so that they could widen the Erie Canal. George
won a few of the contracts and was able to successfully move several houses.
With his new found skill he moved to Chicago in 1855 to help them raise the
buildings that were sinking into the soft sand.

(Gypsie)While
working in Albion, George made friends with Ben Field who was given the rights
to run the Woodruff sleeping cars on the Chicago and Alton Railroad lines. Ben
wanted to expand the sleeping cars and he needed money to do this. He contacted
George and asked to borrow money from him. George agreed to loan him the money
on the condition that if they were to go into business, they would not use the
sleeping cars from the Woodruff company and they would create their own. Ben
agreed and then two of them made millions off their new business making the
Pullman train car, known today as a sleeping car on a train.

(Drifter)George
Pullman lived a very unique life and made several enemies along the way. When
he passed away on October 19, 1897 his family had him buried in a lead-lined
coffin, encased in concrete, covered with steel railroad ties and then more
concrete to keep it from being desecrated. We are going to do an episode on him
and what he did to create such enemies that he had to be buried in such unique
fashion.

(Gypsie)Though we
did not get to see the entire cemetery on our visit there are several people
laid to rest that we also want to mention.

(Gypsie)First, John
Jones was born in 1816 he was the son of a free mixed-race couple and struggled
to gain respect. He married Mary Richardson and the two of them moved to
Chicago where he started a tailoring business. His house soon became the
meeting spot for several abolitionists including Allan Pinkerton. After the
great Chicago fire, he was elected a Chicago commissioner. He passed away in
1879.

(Drifter)William
Ambrose Hulbert was born on October 23, 1832. During his life, he along with
Albert Spalding founded the National League in 1879 and became part owner of
the Chicago’s National Association baseball team. That year he became the
National League’s first president and remained so until he passed away at the
age of 49 from a heart attack on April 10, 1882. In 1995 he was posthumously
elected into the Baseball Hall of Fame and his headstone is absolutely perfect
for him. It is a baseball that is about the size of a basketball.

(Gypsie)Augustus
Dickens, the brother of Charles Dickens is laid to rest in the cemetery. He was
born on November 10, 1827 in Great London England. He came to Chicago after
leaving his blind wife in 1855 to be with Bertha Phillips. He passed away at
the age of 39 from tuberculosis and Charles supported both of his wives
financially after Augustus passed away.  

(Drifter)Jack Johnson
was born on March 31, 1878 in Galveston Texas. He was the first
African-American to hold the heavyweight boxing championship title in the world
when he knocked out James Jeffries, and he held that title from 1908 to 1915. (Gypsie)The movie The Great White Hope that debuted in
1970 is based on the trials and tribulations that he experiences throughout his
life. In 2004 Ken Burns produced his life story in a documentary film called
“Unforgivable Blackness.” On June 10, 1946 Jack Johnson and his friend were refused
dinner at a segregated diner in Franklinton North Carolina. The two of them
were so upset by this and sped off down the highway, the vehicle crashed into a
telephone pole injuring Jack. He was rushed to the closest all black hospital
but did not survive his injuries. He was laid to rest next to his first wife in
the cemetery and he only had a small headstone marking his location. Then in
2005 his headstone was replaced with one that had his name on the top of it and
on the front, it says(Drifter) “First Black heavyweight champion of the world.”(Gypsie) His signature is on the back of the headstone.

(Drifter)Peter
Schoenhofen came to Chicago in the 1850’s and started working as a brewer. In
1861 he partnered up with Matheus Gottfried and the two of them started brewing
together, crafting about 600 barrels of beer a year. In 1867 Peter bought out
his partner and the new company was called the Peter Schoenhofen brewing
company. He passed away on January 2, 1893 at the age of 65 but His beer was
still being brewed until the 1970’s. His mausoleum is an Egyptian pyramid with
a sphinx on one side of the door and a Victorian-era angel on the other.

(Gypsie)Potter
Palmer and his wife Bertha H. Palmer have the most upscale headstone in
Graceland. It has 16 pillars on a cement base with an elaborately carved roof.
The two of them are resting in above ground tombs beneath the canopy supported
by the pillars. Potter got his money from being a smart businessman and
investing his money in real estate. He had his mansion built on Lakeshore drive
which was the largest residence in Chicago. The mansion was torn down in 1950
to put up some apartments. When the great Chicago fire destroyed the town he
was able to borrow over 1 million dollars to rebuild, that was the largest
amount of money loaned to an individual at that time.

(Drifter)Though we
didn’t get to see the entire cemetery and it is on our long list of places to
revisit, we were still able to enjoy it enough that it left a large impression
on us. Graceland is the oldest cemetery in the area and surprisingly there are
still a few spots left to purchase. (Gypsie)If
any of you have any stories to share about the cemetery please send us an email
we would love to hear, and maybe we will share them in a future episode.

(Gypsie)My
resources for this episode were hiddentruths.northwestern.edu, the book
Graceland Cemetery in Chicago, A Sherlockian Walk Midst the Tombstones, and
findagrave.com

(Drifter)Dad Joke?

(Gypsie)Have you
heard about the cemetery for alcoholics? It’s haunted by spirits.

(Gypsie)My ex wife
passed away so i went to the cemetery to honor her. I bought a 20 year old
bottle of fine whiskey and poured it over her grave. But first, I filtered it
through my kidneys.

(Drifter)Well, there
you have it folks, our visit to the Graceland Cemetery in Chicago and some of
its interesting folks laid to rest there. If you want to see pictures of our
travels, we will post them on the website (Gypsie)at rebelatlarge.com where you will find links to
our other social things as well, (Drifter)please if your not following us on Instagram then check us out (Gypsie)@rebelatlarge and also if you haven’t rated us yet
please give us a 5 star review and if you feel so inclined leave us a comment.

(Drifter)Thanks again
folks, (Gypsie)safe travels,(Drifter)
we’ll see ya down the road. 

Begin 30 seconds of the same uplifting Rock/Western tune as the introduction.