Mile Marker 69: Seth Bullock of Deadwood

We were in Deadwood, SD. We looked for ghosts in the Bullock hotel. We visited the Mt. Moriah Cemetery (& Gypsie took a nap). We found the grave of Seth Bullock and his wife. In this episode we tell you about it all.

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Transcript

Seth Bullock

Key: Drifter, Male voice. Gypsie, Female voice

(Drifter) A man is often judged on Broadway by his shirt and the diamond he carries in it. That’s not the way we judge men in the west- it’s not the Chicago judgment. We judge him on his showdown. How does he make good? Seth Bullock of Deadwood, South Dakota. 

(Drifter) There’s lots of culture in the east, 

but right out here they find the yeast, 

Seth Bullock?

(Drifter) Beneath the coat of wind-made tan 

they dig and find the real live man,

Seth Bullock.

(Drifter) The western man is staunch and leal

Only asks a good, square deal,

Seth Bullock.

(Drifter) Success out here is understood

To mean a fellow has made good,

Seth Bullock.

(Drifter) The west is full of go and grit

And does not lock a homely wit,

Seth Bullock.

(Drifter) It sends back men as well as pork

To help out Boston and New York,

Seth Bullock.

(Drifter) The west is full of brawn and brain,

And men are built to stand the strain

Seth Bullock.

(Drifter) Although they look a little rough

Their hearts are made of tender stuff

Seth Bullock.

(Drifter) The hearts that pumps within your breast

Is loyal to the mighty west

Seth Bullock.

(Drifter) Your hand is strong, your head is hard

So put it there. How’s how, old pard-

Seth Bullock?

Uplifting rock/western tune plays for 15 seconds, music begins to taper down then:

(Drifter) Welcome to the Rebel At Large Adventure Podcast. I’m Drifter

(Gypsie) And I’m  Gypsie

(Drifter) Talking about Ghost towns,

(Gypsie) Graveyards,

(Drifter) Outlaws, Heroes

(Gypsie) And Ladies of the night.

Music tapers to an end

(Drifter) Howdy folks, Thanks for joining us for yet another adventure. Today we are heading back to Deadwood South Dakota, and as you may have pulled from the opening poem, which was published on March 24th, 1905 in the Lead Daily Call & written by the Chicago Chronicle, today’s episode will be regarding none other than Seth Bullock.

(Gypsie) On July 23, 1847 a prime example of an American Pioneer was born. Seth was born in Sandwich, Essex, Ontario Canada. His father was Sergeant Major George Bullock and his mother was Agnes Findley. His parents had a total of 6 children, 4 girls and 2 boys and Seth was the youngest son but not the last born child. There is not a lot known about Seth's life as a child. It has been said that his father was strict on him. In 1861 When he was 13 years old he ran away from home. At age 16 he ran away again this time to Montana to live with his sister Agnes. But he was quickly sent back home. Two years later at the age of 18 Seth had left Canada and this time for good. 

(Drifter) Around 1867 he arrived in Montana where he got a job working as an auctioneer. While living with his family in Canada his father got involved in politics and Seth soon followed his fathers footsteps. He ran for the Territorial Legislature but lost. He did however get elected as a member of the Territorial senate. He held this position from 1871- 1872. Though it was only a short lived time he was able to work with other men in congress and help make Yellostone the first ever United States National Park. 

(Gypsie) Some time in 1873 Seth joined the volunteer fire department and was elected Chief Engineer. The Helena Weekly Herald reported that on January 9, 1873 a fire alarm was sounded around 10 o'clock. In less than two minutes the house company was on the run down main street with their cart. When they reached Kemp’s shop they discovered one of the valves was out of the engine and that it could not be used. Under direction from Chief Seth Bullock, the men left the engine and hose cart and took themselves to the scene of the fire. It was discovered that the fire had started in a large out building used by Kirkendall’s teamsters for sleeping and cooking. It was unsure of what started the fire but it is known the teamsters had left a fire in the stove a couple of hours before the fire broke out and they were not there. They lost their bedding and clothing. Kirkendall lost about 300 dollars as well as 200 dollars in personal property. (Drifter) (a total loss of around $12,400 in today’s coin)

(Drifter) While working as a firefighter Seth also worked as the Sheriff of Lewis and Clark County. As if he didn’t have enough going on already he and Sal Star partnered up and opened a hardware store. The following year 1874 Seth was married to his childhood sweetheart, Martha Eccles in Salt Lake City Utah. Martha’s full name is Marguerite Eccles. She was born in September 1849 and was 24 when she married Seth. She was working as a school teacher in Tecumseh Michigan when she and Seth met. (Gypsie) I looked and looked to find out why the two of them were married in Salt Lake and could not find anything. 

(Gypsie) After they were married, the couple returned to Helena Montana. In August 1875 the couple welcomed their first child, Marguerite but they called her Madge for short. It was around this time that Seth and Sal started to hear about a new booming mining town called Deadwood. The two of them wanted to set up their hardware store in town because they knew they would be able to make a lot of money. When settlers first started arriving in Deadwood it was very dangerous, they were under constant attack by the native americans. Seth, fearing for his wife and newborn child’s safety, took them back to Michigan. After they were safe he and Sal headed to Deadwood. 

(Drifter) The first week of August 1876 the two men arrived in the new mining town of Deadwood. They had a wagon full of supplies from their hardware store. With it being such a  new town, there were no buildings at the time so the men set up shop in a tent. They had everything a miner would need for sale, things like picks, pans, shovels and even dynamite. They even had dutch ovens, frying pans and chamber pots. The two men eventually built a wooden structure and used that as their store. 

(Gypsie) If any of you have watched the Deadwood tv series from HBO, it shows Seth and Wild Bill talking while Seth is building his new store. This is not true, Seth and Sol arrived in town just a few days after Wild Bill was shot and killed on August 2 by the coward Jack McCall. The two men never met each other but I am sure if Wild Bill had lived they would have known each other soon after Seth arrived. Deadwood was already known as a rough mining town that was full of transients, ladies of the night, gamblers and even outlaws. When Wild Bill was killed the town went into an uproar and demanded law enforcement be put in place. 

(Drifter) Some people think that Seth was the first marshall in town but that is also incorrect. Issac Brown was elected by the Miner’s Court after the trial of Jack McCall on August 5, 1876. Unfortunately his time as sheriff did not last long. Issac, Reverent Smith, Charles Mason and Charles Holland were traveling between Crook City and Deadwood when they were ambushed and killed on August 20th. 

(Gypsie) The next sheriff was elected on September 16, 1876. It was not Seth, rather Con Stapleton. He was the town marshall for a little over a year before Seth was appointed the Lawrence County Sheriff in March of 1877. During Con’s time as the marshall he had to handle a rather unique incident. On January 14, 1877 Stapleton and some friends were at Al Champan’s saloon enjoying some drinks. Tom Smith came into the saloon brandishing a gun yelling (Drifter) “Anyone who moves gets shot!” (Gypsie) Tom moved towards Con and his friends as Con attempted to take the gun away from him. The gun went off and barely missed Con’s head but the bullet hit Con’s friend David Lunt in the forehead. Everyone thought that David was dead but after he laid there for a bit he got back up as if nothing had happened. 

(Drifter) Tom was arrested and charged for shooting at an officer and was found guilty. After the trial Tom left Deadwood and headed to California. David on the other hand continued to go about life as if nothing was wrong even though he had a hole in his head. On March 22, 1877 David started to complain of a headache. He was taken to his bed at the Centennial Hotel where he passed away. He lived for 67 days after being shot. With David now dead from the gun shot a new warrant was put out for Tom this time for murder. Seth Bullock, now the new Marshall in town, went to California and brought back Tom to stand trial. 

(Gypsie) As we mentioned earlier Seth became the Sheriff of the newly formed Lawrence County in March 1877. Seth got to work putting deputies in place to help him clean up the town and restore law and order. In July a telegram was sent to Washington stating (Drifter) “the Agency Indians are murdering citizens and destroying property in all parts of the country. Twenty ranchmen are already dead. Seth Bullock, sheriff of the Territory, has no arms or ammunition. Can a disposition of troops be made that will give the Black Hills settlers some protection? Signed John C. Pennington Governor. (Gypsie) In August Seth and John Hildebrand got together and organized a Black Hills Cavalry company for protection against Native American attacks. In November of 1877 an election was held in Lawrence County, Seth was running for sheriff against John Manning. After the elections Seth was no longer the Sheriff in town; he held the position for about 9 months but he still made an impact in the town. No one was killed by Seth while he was the sheriff; it is said by his grandson he could (Drifter) “outstare a mad cobra or a rogue elephant.” 

(Gypsie) With things in town settling down and it becoming a safer place to live, thanks to Seth, he sent for his wife Martha and daughter to join him. The family arrived by stagecoach in July 1878. Around this time the couple welcomed their second child Florence who went by Floy. Some sources say she was born on October 3, 1878 meaning Martha was pregnant while she traveled. But her headstone reads 1877 and her birth records state she was born in Charlotte Michigan. I think it was more likely that she was born in 1877 meaning Martha traveled to Deadwood with a brand new baby. What a terrible ride that had to have been, being in a small carriage with a new baby and no air conditioning. 

(Drifter) Seth and Sol purchased a section of land about 30 miles north, in Belle Fourche located at the divergence of the Belle Fourche River and Redwater Creek. The ranch was called S&B Ranch Company. Seth spent a lot of time in the area raising horses and ranching. He is credited with introducing alfalfa farming to South Dakota in 1881. He was also the president of the Iron Hill Company. He was a very busy man and to add to all of this the couple welcomed their 3rd child, Stanley Seth, on October 1. 1880. 

(Gypsie) Seth and Sol were very smart business men. With all the cattle grazing in the area there soon became a need for a freight stop. The Fremont, Elkhorn, and Missouri Valley Railroad began looking for land around Minnesela. There was a large price placed on the land and the railroad company was unsure it would be profitable for them. Seth, seeing a need for the railroad company and also seeing a way he could benefit from them, offered up a free right of way across his land; he also offered to build a terminal if the railroad would locate it on his land. Sol Star sent this proposal to the railroad but he added one more thing: he wanted them to build a railroad into Deadwood. The railroad company agreed and in 1890 everything was completed. 

(Drifter) Seth and Sol used this as another business opportunity and offered up free lots to any business that would move from Minnesela to Belle Fourche. Soon the town of Belle Fourche was known as a Cow Town as cattle men came from all over to stay there. Seth and Sol opened up a hardware and furniture store on the main street of town. In 1894 the county seat was moved from Minnesela to Belle Fourche. Seth once again helped out the town when he raised 2,000 dollars to build a two story courthouse (Gypsie) (just over $69K). 

(Gypsie) One story states that In 1884 while Seth was out at his ranch in Belle Fourche he found three disheveled men camping on his property. The leader of the men was Theodore Roosevelt who was then the deputy sheriff of Medor County North Dakota. They had captured a horse thief known as Crazy Steve and were taking him to Deadwood for trial. The two men formed a friendship that would last until the day they passed away. Theodore trusted Seth so much that in the summers of 1903, 1905, 1907, and 1909 he would send his children out west to spend time with Seth at his ranch in Belle Fourche all these years, teddy was the 26th president of the United States. 

(Drifter) On March 5, 1894, the downtown district of Deadwood suffered a major fire. The fire was started in a lodging house ran by Mrs. Chilson. A drunk man staying in the house knocked over a lamp spreading oil throughout. The oil quickly ignited and the room which was lined with cotton sheets went up into flames. The fire department was called but by the time they arrived the entire building was in flames. They quickly got to work spraying water but the adjoining buildings were made of light pine and they too went up in flames. Soon the fire was so intense the firemen could not get close enough to work. Once the fire was out several buildings had been reduced to rubble. The Star and Bullock Hardware company loss was 2,000  in the front building (Gypsie) (over $69K), (Drifter) 3,000 in stock (Gypsie) (almost $104K), (Drifter) insurance 3,000 (Gypsie) (almost $104K). (Drifter) Their fireproof building in the back that contained probably ninety percent of their stock was not damaged at all. (Gypsie) I also found in the papers Mrs. Seth Bullock lost a building totaling 500 dollars but it did not list what the building was (Drifter) (just over $17K). 

(Gypsie) With their store now gone the two men decided rather than rebuild another hardware store, they would build a hotel. We talked about the hotel in episode 33, Haunted Deadwood. So if you want to know more about it head over there and take a listen. But for those of you that have listened to it, thank you, and just a little refresher on it. The building has three stories and is made of sandstone. It had 64 rooms with steam heat and a bathroom on each floor. Construction was completed in 1896 at a total cost of 40,000 to build it (Drifter) (just over $1.4M). (Gypsie) The building is still standing today and has undergone major renovations. We have not stayed in the hotel yet but have plans to one day go back and stay there. 

(Drifter) On April 25, 1898 Congress declared war with Spain. They then authorized three cavalry regiments known as the First, Second and Third U.S. Volunteer Cavalry Regiments. These men were to serve alongside regular soldiers. Theodore Roosevelt resigned from his post as Assistant Secretary of the Navy and accepted an appointment as Lieutenant Colonel of the first Volunteer Cavalry. These men became known as Roosevelt’s Rough Riders. In South Dakota Seth and Attorney General Melvin Grigsby began recruiting men for the Third Volunteer Cavalry. Seth served as Captain of Troop A in Grigsby’s Cowboy Regiment. He oversaw the training and care of the men at Fort Thomas in Chickamauga Georgia, thankfully his outfit never saw combat. 

(Gypsie) After the war the two men went their separate ways. Theoadore returned to New York where he became the Governor. Seth went back to Deadwood where he continued to work at his ranch and run his hotel. In 1900 Theodore was nominated as the vice president, as part of his campaign he traveled to 24 states delivering speeches. Through his tour Roosevelt enlisted the help of Spanish American War veterans and cowboys to act as his bodyguards. When Theodore arrived in South Dakota on October 3, Seth was right there by his side. Seth was able to convince Theodore to make a stop in Deadwood and Lead. This stop in Deadwood helped put the town in the nation's eye. 

(Drifter) On November 6, 1900 William McKinley and Theodore Roosevelt were elected as President and Vice President of the United States. September 14, 1901 brought sadness to the nation when President McKinley was assassinated. Theodore Roosevelt took his place as president. On September 24, 1901 President Roosevelt sent a letter to Seth, in the letter he gave Seth the position of being the forest supervisor for the Black Hills Forest Reserve. He held this position for 4 and a half years. While in this position Seth combated the Black Hills Pine Beetle. He also introduced the idea of reforesting areas that had been burned. Seth also became the Superintendent of Wind Cave in 1902.

(Gypsie) In 1904 President Roosevelt ran for president again. When he won the election an Inaugural parade was held for him on March 4, 1905. Seth conceived the idea to form a brigade of western cowboys from South Dakota to ride their horses along the parade route. Ads went out in the paper looking for real cowboys to join him, these men were not paid and if they wanted to go they had to pay their way there. The horses were sent out weeks before the 50+ men arrived. After the parade the newspapers report the men went to the white house to meet the  president. (Drifter) Several of the reports talk about how the meeting seemed like a group of friends getting together and not a formal meeting like one would think it would be when you met the president. The parade was a huge success and put Seth's name out once again in the papers. 

(Gypsie) In 1905 President Roosevelt appointed Seth US Marshal for the State of South Dakota. When Seth arrived in Washington on December 9th it was reported by The Daily Item papers (Drifter)  “ Seth came to train his gun on the senate, so that there would be no slip up on confirmation,” suggested Secretary Loeb. Seth responded saying “ No I’ll let Frank Tyree attend to that. I’ll get buy with my gun where they butt into my territory.” (Gypsie) Seth set up his office in Sioux Falls dividing his time between eastern and western parts of the state. Seth held this position for eight years. 

(Drifter) When the President's term was coming to an end Seth was invited to the white house to attend a luncheon. On March 1, 1909 Seth sat with the President's cabinet members and other close friends. After lunch was over Seth was given the honor of presenting the President with a bronze panther statue as a parting gift. Roosevelt had the statue put on display in his library at Sagamore Hill New York. Today you can still see the statue if you go to visit the National Park Service Tour of Sagamore Hill National Historic Site. 

(Gypsie) When Roosevelt finished his presidency he and his son went on a year long african safari. When Roosevelt returned he asked Seth and his family to join him in London England. In May 1910 Seth and his wife traveled by ship to meet Roosevelt. The two men were great friends and sent letters back and forth to each other. If you want to read more about this you can read Kermit Roosevelt’s book called, The Happy Hunting Grounds, as well as Kenneth Keller’s book, Seth Bullock: Frontier Marshal. 

(Gypsie) On January 6, 1919 the nation received terrible news that President Roosevelt had passed away in his home. In The Daily Deadwood Pioneer Times issued on January 7, 1919 Seth wrote about Theodore saying (Drifter) “For more than thirty years have I known Theodore Roosevelt, intimately; first as cattlemen on the cattle ranges of Dakota territory, when all was open range west of the Missouri River, then as a hunter of big game, as a civil service commissioner, as assistant secretary of the navy, then as colonel of Rough Riders, a president of the United States, as an honored and welcome guest of the people of the British empire in London. In all these positions he was the same as in the cowboy days, clean-minded, open hearted and unafraid. “He fears nothing that walks the earth,” was said of him when a special deputy sheriff in Dakota territory. These characteristics were his to the end. Every loyal American has lost a personal friend; our nation, in his death sustains its greatest bereavement since the death of Lincoln; civilization mourns as his bier.” 

(Gypsie) Seth wanted to do something for the president in Deadwood. On February 1, 1919 during the annual meeting of the Society of Black Hills Pioneers he proposed changing the name of Sheep Mountain to Mount Theodore Roosevelt. He also wanted to have a memorial placed in his honor. Two months later plans for a tower were approved and construction began. (Drifter) The tower is made of native Black Hills float rock that was found on the side of the mountain. The tower is thirty feet high by twelve feet in diameter on a pedastal sixteen feet at its base. The interior has a stairway leading to the top, from which you have magnificent views in all directions. The cost was approximately 2000 dollars and the money was donated by several individuals (Gypsie) (0ver $34K).

(Drifter) On July 5, 1919 hundreds of guests traveled the 3 miles out of town to the newly named Mount Theodore Roosevelt to see the dedication of the new tower. In the Daily Deadwood Pioneer Times it talks about how Seth selected the location and he had to fight for it to be placed there. Many of the citizens wanted the tower placed in town or near town so passersby could see it without effort. Seth responded saying (Drifter) “the very fact that people must go three miles to the top of the mountain will make them think more of it when they get there. The drive up the winding road or the walk along the trail will give them a touch of that wild outdoors which Theodore Rosevelt loved. They will have a chance to think of Roosevelt, to dream some of the dreams that Roosevelt dreamed, to dedicate themselves, perhaps, to that service of Americanism and good citizenship to which he so generously gave himself. I don’t want Mount Roosevelt to be a goal for sightseers. I want it to be a national shrine for Americans, who know what Roosevelt meant to our country and to all mankind.” 

(Gypsie) On September 23, 1919, two months after the dedication of the tower Captain Seth Bullock passed away at the age of 70 in his home in Deadwood. Seth had been sick for some time and he knew death was the only result of it. He had time to get his affairs in order and at 4 o'clock that morning as the sun rose over the Black Hills and the city he loved, he said goodbye to the world. (Drifter) His wife and two daughters were by his side, unfortunately his son was back east and unable to make it back in time. Friday September 26 hundreds of people showed up at Seth’s house at 26 and Van Buren street to pay their respect. 

(Gypsie) After the services the procession left the house, it was led by the members of the Society of Black Hills Pioneers. Immediately following them came the G.A.R and Spanish War Veterans. After that was the hearse and the carriage carrying the chief mourners. Then came the cars followed by friends and mourners on foot. His body was placed at the foot of White Rocks. His body was laid to rest in solid rock, facing directly toward Mount Theodore Roosevelt. Closing remarks were given by President P.A, Gushurt reading the ritual of the Society of Black Hills Pioneers it stated. (Drifter) “Brother Pioneers: we have come to the parting. We must now bid farewell to all that was earthly of our departed brother, we can follow him no further on his journey to the great beyond. But we are here reminded that man is born to die, the living of today becomes the dead of tomorrow. Let us hope as we each depart from this life on that unknown journey, that we will find the trails to everlasting peace and comfort, so well blazed by the Pioneers who have gone before that none will be lost on the way. Brothers the dust has returned to earth and the spirit to Him who gave it. Soul of the departed rest in peace. 

(Gypsie) Martha, Seth’s wife continued to live in their house on Van Buren Street until she passed away on March 15, 1939 at the age of 89. Her funeral services were held at the house just like Seth's were. She was laid to rest next to Seth in the Mount Moriah Cemetery. Martha’s favorite hymn, Abide with me, was sung in her memory. Martha sang in a quartette at the Congregational church. She was a major help in the Deadwood social, literary and musical circles. She was one of the charter members of the Round Table club and for a number of years served as its president. 

(Drifter) The following year, the house that Seth and Martha lived in on Van Buren Street was moved. The house was one of the first fine homes built in Deadwood and was a welcome place for President Theodore Roosevelt and his family to stay when they came into town. The house was purchased by Dr. J.J. Berry after Martha passed away and he had it moved to Jackson and Jefferson Street. The exact address of the house is 38 Jefferson Street. According to Zillow the 5 bedroom 4 bathroom house is 4,000 sq feet and in 2020 it sold for 385,605 dollars, which is actually around $444K today. (Gypsie) I wonder if the new owners know the history of the house and who the original owners were? 

(Gypsie) If you ever get the chance to visit the town of Deadwood make sure to stop at the Mount Moriah Cemetery. When we went there a few years back, we planned on being there for most of the day. We packed us a lunch and a bottle of champagne and set off to visit the people that made Deadwood what it is today. You do have to park outside of the cemetery and then pay a small fee to go inside. 

(Drifter) Once you are inside you will find many notable people laid to rest there like Wild Bill and Calamity Jane as well as Dora Dufran who we talked about in episode 16. In the back side of the cemetery and a short walk up a hill you will find where Seth and Martha are laid to rest. (Gypsie) They give you a map when you pay the entrance fee and it will guide you to Seth. Do not miss going to see Seth, if you are there it is well worth the hike up, it gives you a beautiful view of the valley that Seth loved so much and is very peaceful up there. I feel like we spent about 45 minutes up there just enjoying the area. 

(Drifter) Alrighty folks, I think that wraps up our visit with the famed Seth Bullock.

(Drifter) Dad Joke? 

(Gypsie) With this being our 69th episode I thought I would do a little bit of dirty joke, 

(Gypsie) Did you know that 69ing is not referred to as 96ing, because the cost of eating out has gone up.

(Drifter) Thank you all so much for joining us again and supporting the Rebel At Large Adventure Podcast. If you want to stay up to date with us we are most active on the Instagram (Gypsie) @rebelatlarge, (Drifter) we post photos of our adventures on our website (Gypsie) rebelatlarge.com where you’ll find links to our new merch store, Patreon if you want to help fuel the adventure, email if you want to get in touch with us as well as links to our other social deals.

(Drifter) We’ll talk to ya here in a couple of weeks, (Gypsie) Safe Travels, (Drifter) We’ll see ya down the road.

Begin 30 seconds of the same uplifting Rock/Western tune as the introduction.